Ultimate Trousers – two pairs in denim and crepe

Ultimate Trousers – now there’s a pattern with a lot to live up to. What a name.

I was actually one of the testers for this Sew Over It pattern, way back at the beginning of the year. You might have spotted my denim version during Me Made May, if you can remember that far back.

ultimate trousers me-made may

I’ve worn these a lot since making them.

I really like the fit of this pattern, especially with the deep darts at the back, but I did have to make a few changes:

  • I cut a size 14
  • Added 0.5cm to the rise
  • Made the back waist about 1.5cm higher in the centre, tapering out to the beginning of the dart
  • Lengthened the legs 4 (yes, 4) inches.
  • Added about 1cm to the front crotch seam

Here’s the battered looking pattern for visual reference:

ultimate trousers pattern changes 2

I’m pretty happy with my first denim Ultimate Trousers. They’re really comfortable for non-stretch trousers, and I like the fit.

ultimate trousers denim 2More recent photo with bonus new hair

I think the back view, (not pictured because I couldn’t face putting it online for posterity) could do with some welt pockets to break up the vast expanse.

But that would make them more time-consuming to sew, and as drafted they’re incredibly quick. There are only 4 pattern pieces!

The denim is just cheap stuff from my local fabric shop, Ultimate Craft (DOUBLE ULTIMATE) but it’s holding up well.

For my second pair I was determined to add pockets. The only way I could think of doing this was by adding a waistband as well. So that’s what I did.

ultimate trousers crepe 2

This fabric is from Fabric World on Goldhawk Road, and I was bullied into buying it by Clare, Nicole and Sally on the big sewing meet-up earlier this year. It’s an amazing, silky viscose, and I love the print.

Here’s a closer view of the waistband and pockets:

ultimate trousers crepe pockets

It was a bit shifty and annoying to sew, but I wrangled it into submission in the end. I can’t believe how well I matched the pattern across the front. It was a complete fluke. I didn’t even cut the pieces on a single layer.

It’s not matched at all across the side seams because, well, who can be bothered with that.

Here’s what the waistband and pocket pieces look like. For the pocket, I just drew a slanted line across the side of the trousers, and then traced off a vaguely pocket shaped piece to match it.

Ultimate trousers waistband pockets

To add the waistband, I just drew a line about 1.5 inches from the top of the trousers, and then traced this piece off (you can see the line in the photo). I then took this piece, folded out the dart lines, and extended it at the top. Then I added seam allowances.

This second version are so comfortable to wear. They’re definitely a step up for my lounging wardrobe, which up until now has consisted of a holey old pair of American Apparel yoga pants and some unfortunate promotional t-shirts.

I have worn them out of the house a few times, when it was really hot. They’re very lightweight.

My one reservation is that they look a bit like something you’d wear to go backpacking in Asia. This is particularly noticeable from behind for some reason:

ultimate trousers

Not saying I have anything against this look, I’m just not sure it works when you’re commuting on a rainy London bus rather than trekking through Thailand.

ultimate trousers crepe 1

I know I look like I’m telling someone to piss off in this photo but my hair looks good, so it’s staying in.

Anyway, hopefully I will be going somewhere hot and sunny next year, and then these will come in handy for public use. Until then I can reserve them for autumn nights in watching Don’t Tell The Bride and eating cheese on toast.

I definitely recommend this pattern. It’s an easy one to fit as there are no pockets, so you can quickly whip up a muslin and test the fit. And it’s comfortable without relying on stretch fabric. A good way to dip your toe into trouser-making for beginners.

You can buy the Ultimate Trousers pattern from Sew Over It here.

19 thoughts on “Ultimate Trousers – two pairs in denim and crepe

  1. janeyo October 28, 2016 / 8:40 PM

    Love these as jeans,my fattest bit is My tum so the side zip and no waistband really appeals to me as more streamlined round middle. You added 4”,what height are you pls?
    Well done they look great x

  2. mywapblog.com September 28, 2014 / 1:20 AM

    Hi, after rezding this awesome article i am
    too glad to share my experience here with colleagues.

  3. Gjeometry September 4, 2014 / 9:50 PM

    Wow, these do fit well! I wonder if they would fit my body type well, or if I’d be futzing and futzing with the fitting. I guess there’s only one way to find out!

  4. seamsoddlouise August 31, 2014 / 5:59 PM

    I think you have just convinced me to buy these!

  5. Jenna August 29, 2014 / 1:55 PM

    Love them. I really want to try this pattern now, and I really like the added waistband and pockets because that is one thing that puts me off these as everyday trousers.

  6. Hila August 29, 2014 / 1:41 PM

    I really like what you did with the waistband and I can see myself making something like those (if I ever get round to making trousers)! I am scared of making trousers!

  7. Helen // Grosgrain Green August 26, 2014 / 7:15 PM

    These look great! I think they might be the pattern to finally tempt me into trouser making!!

  8. gingermakes August 26, 2014 / 1:45 PM

    These look so great on you! They’re really nice!

  9. Kerry August 26, 2014 / 8:50 AM

    4 pattern pieces! That’s great, and definitely makes trousers seem less intimidating too, though no problem for a jeans-making veteran like yourself. I have a Simplicity Perfect Fit pattern I’m preparing myself to make this Autumn.
    I think the patterned trousers are lovely and not too hippy-ish at all, they look really stylish and sophisticated with the denim shirt.

  10. craftylittlebugger August 26, 2014 / 7:56 AM

    Love both of these, the fit is really great. I also have this pattern and want to incorporate pockets and a waistband. I’m just too busy procrastinating to make a muslin.

  11. velosewer August 25, 2014 / 11:53 PM

    These look great on you with your new hair do as well. The second pair is perfect weekend wear to me to simply ‘chill’ in.

  12. fabrictragic August 25, 2014 / 10:43 PM

    They look great – the second pair look like they have a lot more ease through the leg – it’s amazing what different fabric will do to the same pattern!

  13. Caroline Joynson August 25, 2014 / 8:35 PM

    I really like both pairs and I agree with ParisGrrl and Maeve that you should wear them out of the house definitely!!

  14. maevef2014 August 25, 2014 / 8:05 PM

    These look great on you and the second pair with your drafted pockets and waistband have persuaded me I need this pattern. Also you should wear them out of the house 😆.

  15. Katie August 25, 2014 / 6:27 PM

    Arr, I was totally feeling up that second fabric on Goldhawk on Saturday. The folk I was with clearly weren’t as persuasive as Clare and Sally, but I want it! It looks great as trousers.

  16. ParisGrrl August 25, 2014 / 5:36 PM

    I don’t think they look too “Thailand” at all (not that I don’t love some good Thai fashion). I’d wear them here in Paris for sure, so you should rock them in London!

  17. Nancy August 25, 2014 / 4:57 PM

    The second pair look soooo good on you!

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