Bright blue stretch skinny jeans: Burda 7863

I made some more jeans! You know what they say about third time lucky…


These are definitely my best pair so far. Once again, the pattern is Burda 7863. The fabric is bright blue stretch twill from Mandors in Glasgow.

I’m really happy with the fit on this pair. I widened the outside hips and that seems to have eliminated a lot of vertical wrinkles in the front. Also, it’s my flattest fly front yet!

jeans fly

The topstitching on this pair of jeans has taken years off my life. If there’s any sewing task worse than double-needle topstitching with heavy thread on stretch twill, I never ever want to try it. I should apologise to our neighbours for all the shrieks of frustration coming from our flat as the needle jammed AGAIN or the thread got caught in a tangled mess.

After a lot of trial and error I did come up with some ways to make it easier – if anyone’s interested I’ll do a post.

I also added rivets (from Jaycotts) which were v satisfying to hammer in. The inside pockets and fly facing are made from a scrap of black and white floral cotton I had lying around:

inside jeans

One curious thing about this pair. The leg seams are incredibly twisted. The inside seam is almost at the front of my foot. This happened with my brown pair too, but it’s much more noticeable in this one.

At first I thought it was something I’d done when altering the pattern, but after reading this blog post I’m wondering if it’s because of the stretch twill fabric I used. The first (denim) pair I sewed had no problem, and I don’t think I’ve altered the legs enough to cause this much distortion. Or possibly I cut the fabric off-grain. Anyone know about seam twisting in twill fabrics?

Anyway, it’s not that noticeable in this colour, and if anyone comments, I will pass it off as a homage to the early 2000s.

jeans 2

I’m happy with the back fit too. There are some wrinkles but they feel comfortable and allow for movement, rather than being constricting.

Hooray for new jeans! The pain of topstitching these is fading from my mind, and I’m already planning another pair in black stretch denim with a flared leg…

jeans 1


38 thoughts on “Bright blue stretch skinny jeans: Burda 7863

  1. Splithoof rivera June 27, 2017 / 4:17 AM

    It’s because of the grainline being off. Same with those old levis. It was a way to spare fabric waste.

  2. Chris July 3, 2013 / 8:28 PM

    These look amazing! You have done such a professional job on all the topstitching and the fly front. I love them!

  3. Helen June 26, 2013 / 9:53 PM

    These look great! Lovely colour and the fit looks very good on you.

    Love your necklace too!

  4. Zoe June 21, 2013 / 10:19 AM

    They look phenom Kathryn! xx

  5. Skinny Jeans June 20, 2013 / 10:53 AM

    Thanks for sharing this information. This is really looking cool and perfect skinny jeans.

  6. Jill June 16, 2013 / 5:43 AM

    I want to run across the pond and steal these from you!

  7. gingermakes June 15, 2013 / 8:28 PM

    These look GREAT! I love them– what a fab color!

  8. Clipped Curves June 12, 2013 / 7:07 PM

    Great that you perfected the fit… fab colour too!

  9. charityshopchic June 12, 2013 / 12:38 PM

    Very impressed with your level of topstitching/finishing, your jeans totally look like RTW, if not better – well done!

    Realising Levi Twisted seams came out in the early 2000s is making me feel old…

  10. grtescp June 12, 2013 / 9:07 AM

    I agree with everyone else – these look better than shop bought jeans! Very impressive top stitching, I can imagine your pain, top stitching with the double needle always causes me huge amounts of stress!

  11. Scruffybadger June 12, 2013 / 5:30 AM

    Oh wow, another pair!? They look ( treat this as the biggest jeans compliment) as if you’ve bought them. I am again sooooo impressed. The rivets just make the finished effect. I so need to get screaming with a twin needle going round multi layers of denim! ( but not yet)

  12. Mary June 11, 2013 / 11:06 PM

    Great jeans! I had some twisting in the legs of a pair that I made recently, and I took out the stitching (this was before all the topstitching) and redid it, making sure that I started from the bottom and went up, instead of top down, and pinned everything really well. It helped a bit, but I still had some twisting. All my Levi’s 501s did that back in the day too. Who knows.

  13. Joanne June 11, 2013 / 8:17 PM

    They are awesome. The detail is fantastic well done!

  14. Sadie June 11, 2013 / 8:09 PM

    These are amazing and so flattering! V professional looking. And I love the colour 🙂

  15. crab&bee June 11, 2013 / 6:10 PM

    These look amazing!! The fit looks fantastic. I’m going to work with twill next, probably a trouser-style pair of pants. I’ll report back if there’s any twisting!

  16. Kelly June 11, 2013 / 4:37 PM

    They look so professional! I love the color too. I’m working hard to get a fitted, casual pants pattern just right, but I’m sticking to more of the trouser look that doesn’t require so much topstitching!

  17. thesecretlifeofseams June 11, 2013 / 4:00 PM

    These look amazing! It’s really cool to see how they’re getting better and better each time, you must be feeling chuffed. Plus the colours in this outfit are lovely.

  18. Michelle June 11, 2013 / 3:52 PM

    These trousers look amazing! If I saw you walking down the street, i would never have guessed they weren’t RTW.

  19. flossiejamieson June 11, 2013 / 2:13 PM

    Fantastic job! They are truly a work of denim based art. I bow down to your jean-creativity. Re the twisting if the leg seams – this happens to several pairs of my commercial jeans, generally only on the right leg. Maybe it’s a combo of my wonky hips/long stride and the stitching moving the fabric.

  20. sewlittletime June 11, 2013 / 2:01 PM

    wow – fab job. they definitely look real! and yes to the topstitching post!”

  21. Fiona Parker June 11, 2013 / 1:43 PM

    Well done! I couldn’t even face the process of all that topstitching, and the challenge of making well fitting slim fit trousers in the first place, urgh!! They look great!

  22. nicoleneedles June 11, 2013 / 1:14 PM

    They’re gorgeous! Well done you for having the patience to make so many jeans; the last time I attempted anything like this I broke so many needles I needed safety goggles.

    And I can confirm they’re identical to a pair from Jbrand which retail for about £215

  23. Béa June 11, 2013 / 1:06 PM

    I am SO impressed! They look superb.

  24. Theresa Shingler June 11, 2013 / 12:51 PM

    PLEASE do a post on top stitching, I broke my machine last time I tried on heavy fabric, and haven’t done it since, I know that the trousers I’ve made would look better with it, but I’m too chicken to try again, your top stitching on these jeans looks fab, I’m deeply envious!

  25. Roobeedoo June 11, 2013 / 12:40 PM

    Those look “real”! I am pretty sure that is the same fabric I took to the counter and back to the shelf about 4 times and left the shop without buying! Well done! You’ve made my jeans for me! 😉 I remain too scared.

  26. Katy June 11, 2013 / 12:36 PM

    Looking good! I’m so impressed, and well done on persevering on the topstitching!

  27. sewbusylizzy June 11, 2013 / 11:39 AM

    Impressive and YES top stitching is the bane of my sewing life – help me oh please sewing sister!!!!

  28. shivanibbwi June 11, 2013 / 10:54 AM

    wow well done – v impressive. the fit looks great – definitely worth persevering with all the top-stitching!

  29. dandeliondrift June 11, 2013 / 10:50 AM

    Wow! These look great! I am thoroughly impressed. I have not tried something as difficult as sewing jeans, but I think I would like to try!

  30. Stevie June 11, 2013 / 10:32 AM

    They look awesome! You did so well with that topstitching, its so neat. I would have probably chucked them on the floor and left them there! I have no patience with stuff like that. I love the colour too. I’d definitely say third time is the bestest!

  31. kathryn June 11, 2013 / 10:23 AM

    so impressive! These looks great, so professional. I’m looking forward to a trip to Mandors when I go home in July – think I’ll stay away from jeans making for a while though, maybe when I’m a bit more experienced!

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