Ultimate Trousers – now there’s a pattern with a lot to live up to. What a name.
I was actually one of the testers for this Sew Over It pattern, way back at the beginning of the year. You might have spotted my denim version during Me Made May, if you can remember that far back.
I’ve worn these a lot since making them.
I really like the fit of this pattern, especially with the deep darts at the back, but I did have to make a few changes:
- I cut a size 14
- Added 0.5cm to the rise
- Made the back waist about 1.5cm higher in the centre, tapering out to the beginning of the dart
- Lengthened the legs 4 (yes, 4) inches.
- Added about 1cm to the front crotch seam
Here’s the battered looking pattern for visual reference:
I’m pretty happy with my first denim Ultimate Trousers. They’re really comfortable for non-stretch trousers, and I like the fit.
I think the back view, (not pictured because I couldn’t face putting it online for posterity) could do with some welt pockets to break up the vast expanse.
But that would make them more time-consuming to sew, and as drafted they’re incredibly quick. There are only 4 pattern pieces!
The denim is just cheap stuff from my local fabric shop, Ultimate Craft (DOUBLE ULTIMATE) but it’s holding up well.
For my second pair I was determined to add pockets. The only way I could think of doing this was by adding a waistband as well. So that’s what I did.
This fabric is from Fabric World on Goldhawk Road, and I was bullied into buying it by Clare, Nicole and Sally on the big sewing meet-up earlier this year. It’s an amazing, silky viscose, and I love the print.
Here’s a closer view of the waistband and pockets:
It was a bit shifty and annoying to sew, but I wrangled it into submission in the end. I can’t believe how well I matched the pattern across the front. It was a complete fluke. I didn’t even cut the pieces on a single layer.
It’s not matched at all across the side seams because, well, who can be bothered with that.
Here’s what the waistband and pocket pieces look like. For the pocket, I just drew a slanted line across the side of the trousers, and then traced off a vaguely pocket shaped piece to match it.
To add the waistband, I just drew a line about 1.5 inches from the top of the trousers, and then traced this piece off (you can see the line in the photo). I then took this piece, folded out the dart lines, and extended it at the top. Then I added seam allowances.
This second version are so comfortable to wear. They’re definitely a step up for my lounging wardrobe, which up until now has consisted of a holey old pair of American Apparel yoga pants and some unfortunate promotional t-shirts.
I have worn them out of the house a few times, when it was really hot. They’re very lightweight.
My one reservation is that they look a bit like something you’d wear to go backpacking in Asia. This is particularly noticeable from behind for some reason:
Not saying I have anything against this look, I’m just not sure it works when you’re commuting on a rainy London bus rather than trekking through Thailand.
I know I look like I’m telling someone to piss off in this photo but my hair looks good, so it’s staying in.
Anyway, hopefully I will be going somewhere hot and sunny next year, and then these will come in handy for public use. Until then I can reserve them for autumn nights in watching Don’t Tell The Bride and eating cheese on toast.
I definitely recommend this pattern. It’s an easy one to fit as there are no pockets, so you can quickly whip up a muslin and test the fit. And it’s comfortable without relying on stretch fabric. A good way to dip your toe into trouser-making for beginners.
I was nominated for a blog hop question type thing by the lovely sisters at Tea for Two. I don’t usually do these kind of things but I haven’t posted for so long I thought it might be a fun way to break the silence. So here it is.
What have you been doing / making / scribbling at your desk this week?
I’ve been making a muslin of a ridiculous Joan Collin-esque one-sleeved dress in bright red crepe.
Last week I made a black denim skirt on a complete whim – it took four hours from start to finish. I love that kind of impulse sewing sometimes.
Where are you currently finding your inspiration? (Influences, heroes, sources of inspiration, paths exploring)?
I get 99% of my clothing inspiration by browsing Net-A-Porter and attempting to rip off the beautiful, overpriced clothing.
I also LOVE Pinterest, like the craft-loving cliche that I am. I’ve even got a Pinterest mug. And tote bag.
I also like perving over RTW clothing in shops and seeing how they’ve made all the different details.
Also, anything that Whistles sell. And Oliver Spencer.
How important is being creative to you, and how do you blend this with your work / life / family balance?
It’s super important for me to have something creative to focus on outside work.
Even though I haven’t been blogging lately, I’ve been sewing a lot. If I have to choose to spend my time sewing something or blogging, I choose the first one every time, although it pains me not to be talking about it on here.
When I’ve got a sewing project on the go it’s pretty much all I think about. I put the pieces together and run through the steps a hundred times in my head before I do it in real life.
I love planning a project from start to finish like my green skirt. When it turns out like the picture in your head – there’s nothing better than that.
I do find it difficult to keep things balanced though. This year has been so busy. It’s really hard to find the time to make stuff.
One thing I really miss is drawing. I’m not very good at it but you never look at something so closely as when you’re drawing it. It really fixes objects in your head in a unique way.
So it’s taken me FOREVER to write this post, and you’ve probably already heard about the Minerva meetup on a million blogs.
You know about the Raiders Of the Lost Ark style craft warehouse, the amazing dinner at Blackburn Rovers FC, and the red carpet line-up, as well as the realisation that the £3 taxi ride exists when you leave London.
So this post is just about my outfit. Thanks to Katie for taking some of the photos (you’ll be able to spot them, they’re the good ones).
I knew I wanted to make something different, and in the end I came up with the idea of a pencil skirt and crop top:
Originally I was going to sew some kind of crazy one-shouldered 60s pencil dress, but when the fabric arrived (this beautiful John Kaldor stretch cotton) I knew I had to do something simpler. The print is huge! And I didn’t really fancy a shift dress. So co-ordinates it was.
The pencil skirt
It’s a By Hand London Charlotte skirt, which is really straightforward to sew. I made these changes to the pattern:
- Cut a size 12 but added length to the waistband, which I interfaced.
- Lengthened the darts 1.5cm each at the front, as I was getting a strange fold of extra fabric there.
- Interfaced the edges of the invisible zip.
- Added a back vent using this tutorial.
- Lined it with this stretch mesh.
Stretch cotton is absolutely perfect for this pattern, I’ll be looking for some more to make another one. Although you need to add a vent – not sure how you could walk in it without one!
It’s a Burda pattern – 05/2012 #131.
I cut out a size 34 and had to make some serious changes as it was huge. I took the sides in a lot, cut about 4 inches off the bottom, added back darts and neck darts, and swapped out the button band for a zip.
Here’s how it looks on the back:
Cutting out was an enormous pain. I did it all on a single layer as the print is so huge. I didn’t really want to end up with a massive flower over an anatomical feature.
My inspiration was this outfit from Jonathan Saunders which is slightly more classy:
The separating plastic zipper is from Jaycotts, and I had to choose between the 14 and 16 inch variations without knowing exactly how long the top would be. In the end I went with the 14 inch, which worked as the skirt was so high waisted.
Will I wear it again?
The acid test. As a whole, I reckon the outfit works, and I might get it out for a wedding this summer. It turned out slightly more cartoonish than I intended, but I think I rocked it anyway.
It seems highly unlikely that I’ll wear the crop top with another skirt – the Charlotte is the most high-waisted skirt I own.
I did try the top on with another skirt, but it was all a bit 90s looking. I distinctly remember wearing a tie-dye crop top to a school disco in about 1996, so I think I’ll leave that style the second time round.
The skirt is a different issue. I’ve already re-worn it loads! It looks really good with a denim shirt, if I say so myself:
Thank you Minerva!
Huge thanks to Vicki and everyone at Minerva for organising such an amazing day. I’ve been a terrible network member lately, massively behind with projects and blog posts, but I really enjoy being part of it all, and I sincerely hope I’ve managed to shift some fabric for them. They deserve it!
Also a big thank you goes out to all the ladies of the online sewing community, for being awesome. I’d be living a much sadder life if I’d never met all these amazing women. Although I’d probably have spent less money on fabric.
I’m very behind with this Me-Made-May roundup. You’re probably sick of seeing these blog posts by now, so I’ll just cram everything into one giant update.
I was doing well with the daily photo, but the end of the month slipped into chaos. I got tired of seeing my ugly mug on Flickr every morning, plus I went on holiday to Norway which knocked out my normal routine.
I did well with my pledge though, honest! I didn’t wear a shop-bought pair of jeans the entire month, and generally my outfits were 80% handmade.
Here’s the photos I did manage to get:
All-blue extravaganza (Days 20, 22 and 23)
The week of bad photos (think this was days 24, 25 and 26?)
Norwegian adventure (no idea which days these were)
L-R: Knit pencil skirt and chambray shirt (super-classy airport toilet selfie), unblogged denim trousers and stripey top, chambray shirt again and some (gasp) trousers from Dorothy Perkins. I did get them in a swap though. They were brilliant for climbing up a big Norwegian hill.
And here’s the traditional Me-Made-May giant photo collage:
Drumroll please! The Me-Made-May 2014 Yes I Like That awards go to…
Most worn item:
Definitely my chambray shirt. I’m glad I spent all that time doing French seams and sewing buttonholes – I love wearing this and it feels quite smart.
Most complimented item (online):
This has to be my Simplicity geometric shirt dress. But I think it must photograph better than it looks. I didn’t get any offline love for this dress, and someone even asked me if I made it myself, WITHOUT following up with a compliment. Dissed.
Most complimented item (in real-life):
It was the Flora shirtdress, although it might have something to do with the fact that I wore it to the big sewing meetup. Those seamstresses are pretty free and easy with their dress compliments.
Most earth-shattering realisation:
I don’t really like wearing dresses! I only put on three all month, and I felt pretty uncomfortable in all of them. Knit dresses are an exception though, so I need to make more of those. Other than that, SEPARATES 4 LIFE.
Most versatile item:
Favourite new Me-Made-May blogger:
A difficult one to choose, but I think it has to be Marilla, who I chatted to at the big meetup, and who has a wardrobe of beautiful stripes.
Worst photo location:
A tough category, but I think I’ll have to go with the disgusting toilets at London Fields Brewery, 10 hours into an all-day music festival (you can see the evidence in day 25 above). Nobody can say I don’t suffer for my art.
So, I finally made something useful out of all those fabric scraps I can’t stop hoarding (it’s becoming a serious problem – I do a cull every six months, but I think they’re breeding inside my plastic IKEA boxes…)
It’s a log-cabin cushion cover! Behold the glory:
We’ve talked before about the massive high of trying a craft for the first time, when you’re totally clueless about all the mistakes you’re making.
This cushion definitely qualifies for me. It’s pretty wonky and is not going to win me any rosettes at the WI fete, but it was a total thrill to put together.
Here’s the back where you can see the construction (and wonkiness) more clearly. Another brilliant thing about patchwork – no seam finishing!
I used this super-helpful tutorial and cheat sheet to work out what strips to cut. I aimed for yellow on one side and blue on the other, but tried to mix it up a little bit so it didn’t look too much like the Ukrainian flag.
All the fabrics are scraps that I’ve been saving for years. The insects and the bikes were screenprinted by me in various classes, and you might spot bits of other projects here and there.
I didn’t cut all the strips to length in advance, just did it as I went along. This ruler, recommended by someone on Twitter, was super-useful, along with my rotary cutter and mat.
The back is entirely made from the chambray left over from my recent shirt project, and the buttons are vintage ones from my stash:
Although I enjoyed making this, I can’t see myself going over to the dark side and becoming a full-on quilter. Precision is not my strong suit.
Also, I didn’t actually quilt this as you can see, just backed it with some yellow fabric to hide those messy seams, and then overlocked the edges before making the cushion cover.
To finish, I thought you might enjoy this view of my sewing room mid-construction. I think tidying up took longer than making the actual cushion…
I’ve really enjoyed this week’s round of MMM, probably because the sun came out.
I also went to the big London sewing meetup which was completely epic. Never have I seen so many handmade dresses together in one place! It almost caused a rip in the space-time-clothing continuum.
Anyway, here’s what I wore this week.
Day 14, at work on a sunny day. I had a haircut! I’ve been growing my hair for ages, so I could have an up-do at my wedding, and also just for the novelty value. But I’m so happy to have a bob again. Oh, I’m wearing some unblogged denim trousers, my McCalls white broderie top, and a cardigan from Dorothy Perkins.
Day 16, at work. The first time this year my legs have seen the sunlight without a protective layer of tights. It was a tough day for them but I think they coped well. Not sure about all the passersby who were blinded by my milkbottle white pins. I am wearing a Simplicity 2258 skirt, a McCalls white shirt, a cardigan from Cos, and some yellow Vans (actually a wedding present from my husband!).
Day 17, off to the big sewing meetup Wearing my Flora dress for the first time in public. The cross-over top gapes a bit and I was in danger of flashing everyone on the tube and at the meetup, so I’ll probably stitch it down. My cardigan is from Uniqlo and my shoes are from, yes, Clarks. This was the perfect outfit for a day of chatting, shopping and drinking with 70 other sewing ladies.
Day 18, Sunday brunch and outdoors drinking Check out the different backdrop! And the yellow light coming from a strange orb in the sky! It was so hot today. I wore my Simplicity Lisette traveller shirtdress. I’m still not 100% sure about this dress so I’m glad that Me-Made-May gave me the push to wear it.
I’ve finally jumped on the chambray bandwagon!
Yes, I may be five years behind the rest of the blogging world, but at least I got there in the end.
Mine isn’t quite as slinky, but it’s a lovely little spring shirt and was fun to sew. You can read my full post about it on the Minerva network here.
The fabric is gorgeous but it does tend to wrinkle. I promise that I ironed the shirt before I took these photos, even if you can’t really tell.
Somehow, even though I spent ages matching everything, the pockets have come out wonky at the bottom. Look at the photo – the pocket on my left is about a cm lower than the pocket on my right.
This is DEEPLY annoying, as I swear they were even at one point. I think I caused the wonkiness when I sewed the placket.
Here’s an in-progress shot, you can see that the left pocket has already started to creep down…
I’m not convinced that I sewed the bottom of the button placket correctly, as the instructions were brief and v obscure. So that may be the reason.
Oh well, I don’t think anyone will notice.
If they do, hopefully they’ll just think I have one bosom larger than the other. Better that than shoddy sewing skills.
The instructions for the rest of the shirt were good. They tell you to do french seams all over the shop, even on the sleeves, and I obediently followed. It makes for a lovely clean finish, which is good as this fabric does fray a bit.
I don’t always do what it says on pattern instructions, but I tend to think they know best, even if what they’re saying is obviously ridiculous. Also, I always read instruction manuals, which may be a connected habit.
Just a small insight into my psyche there for you.
You can buy the kit for this project here for £34, which includes everything down to the thread (chosen by clever Vicky at Minerva, and it’s a perfect match). You even get a trouser pattern thrown in by Vogue for no extra! How can you resist?
p.s. You might recognise the trousers from a previous Minerva project.